Since I was doing admin I printed off several justificatifs de domicile, photocopied my passport a couple of times and set off with a jaunty step. That didn't last long. Bordeaux is in turmoil because the tram system needs major maintenance, so our wonderfully convenient tram C and A that would normally sweep me smoothly to the Town Hall is not running. Tram C stops at the Gare Saint-Jean. So I got off, intending to take bus 1 that would drop me behind the town hall. As I walked round the tram a woman said, "Monsieur, c'est le terminus, ce tramway s'arrète ici" "Oui, et du coup je prends le bus.." I replied, wondering why this public-spirited citizen felt the need to warn me. Anyway, the world, his wife, their three kids and their dogs and cats were all waiting for the number 1 bus, so I decided to hoof it. My route took me through the glorious Marché des Capucins. Pat and I have decided that we must visit this market from time to time but we have ...